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When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.